Students Exit, So Slide Into a Campus Eatery

I am not one of those folks who moan and groan about the student swarm around central campus. I think the kids add an energy to life (and the economy!) in A2, and I never hesitate to pop into a campus restaurant or retailer. But I know that on graduation day some folks sigh in relief and think, “ahh, the town is ours again.” So following are brief notes on a few of my favorite campus restaurants. None are a particular secret, and all have received recognition of some kind or ‘tother (Current Magazine, for instance). But they might have slipped your mind while the kids are in town.

Madras Masala. We’re blessed with some fantastic Indian restaurants in Ann Arbor, but this little place on Maynard under the parking structure stands out. They have the ubiquitous lunch buffet, but my favorite feature is that when you order an entrée, you can specify mild, medium, or hot. I like hot, and I rarely find a restaurant in Ann Arbor that honors the promise of the word. But boy, they know their heat at Madras Masala. I had the specialty Lamb Curry (see photo above of my leftovers) one night for dinner, and it percolated pleasantly in my system until bedtime (sounds gross, but it’s a good thing). And I LOVE whoever composed their menu. The many items are described with enthusiasm, and in detail that’s easy for non-Indians to understand.

Jerusalem Garden. I am not a huge fan of Middle Eastern inspired food, though Pepper has caused me to give more thought than I imagined possible to the nature of good falafel. And Jerusalem Garden, on Division next to the Library parking lot, is fortunate in its falafel. And hummus. Bring lots of mints, cause it’s good and garlicky. But my favorites are the stuffed grape leaves. A friend brought Jerusalem Garden’s to a potluck once, and I embarrassed myself in the quantity I consumed. I stopped just short of standing over the Tupperware, slapping away hands of others trying to horn in on my newly discovered delectable. I was like Gollum, only my “precious” were little leafy packets filled with rice, lamb, and spices.

Totoro. Sushi is another example of an embarrassment of riches in Ann Arbor. Totoro is on State Street, squeezed in among a cacophony of chain establishments. Yet it reminds me of my favorite sushi place in midtown Manhattan – easy to miss, but a quiet respite for those in the know. They slice a nice piece of fish here, and the service and presentation are more polished and serene than one might expect from a place in studentville. They’ve got a superb variety of rolls – Fire Island is my favorite of the moment, with crab, avocado, tempura crunchies, topped with spicy tuna salad.

Red Hot Lovers. Even I hesitate to visit Red Hot during the school year. It’s location on East U isn’t convenient to a parking structure, and I don’t necessarily want to slog in 15 degree weather down icy sidewalks to a place that is really – how shall I say it? – a dump. Ah, but in fine weather a two or three block stroll seems hardly an impediment, when a pleasant seat at a sidewalk picnic table awaits. And then there are the dogs. And the fries. A traditional Chicago “dragged through the garden,” with a side of waffle cheese fries. That’s bliss.

Dominick’s. Who are the wiseacres who phone ahead to “reserve” a table at this campus landmark behind the Law Quad, their supposed class name scrawled on a circle of pizza cardboard? One of these days I’m going to call Rich Devarti and ask, “can you please save a table for my ‘Asphalt and Barrels: Overcharging Your Municipality 101’ class?” Dominick’s gets a lot of knocks for its eccentricities, and “pizza bread, pizza bread for Mandy” on the loudspeaker doesn’t necessarily inspire culinary nirvana. But it’s a great place for lunch on a balmy day, with the subs and grilled sandwiches tasty, filling, and a good value. And of course there’s the cheap beer and wine.

Whoa, I’m well beyond our self-imposed 500-word limit. Watch for “Slide Into a Campus Eatery: Part II”