Buca di Bob Sparrow

“There’s no bad time to wear a Hawaiian shirt. GOD wears a Hawaiian shirt!”

That was photographer Cary Walker’s response when I asked him if he and Diane were wearing their shirts in honor of an occasion. My brother, sister-in-law, and I were seated near the couple at dinner Saturday night. And we all agreed that "God wears a Hawaiian shirt" bumper stickers could make someone a lot of money, particularly at Jimmy Buffet concerts.
We had this exchange over dinner in Kerrytown, at an "afterhours" meal hosted by Bob Sparrow, owner of the meat and produce market. Once a month he and his staff push back all the produce displays, set up long tables with white linens, and serve a multi-course meal to about 100 people.

This month’s dinner was Italian themed, and for $45 each we enjoyed salad, stuffed beef tenderloin with polenta, chicken marsala, lasagna, and mini-cannoli. The fresh, high quality products of the market are the focus, and Bob and his staff manage to prepare the entire meal in their tiny little kitchen behind the cash register.
Dinner was excellent, and I especially enjoyed the beef tenderloin. Given Sparrow’s cred as a butcher, it’s no surprise that the meat was wonderfully flavorful, and he wisely chose a preparation that did not suffer for arriving at table well done. And everyone remarked on the flavor of the polenta. With its splash of red sauce, something about it was just right, a great comfort food.
By the time the cannoli were served, we were absolutely stuffed, but I somehow managed to force them down. Rich, creamy mascarpone, with a surprise of chocolate chips in the pastry garnished with slivered almonds. And I especially appreciated that Rico sent us home with extras for The Button.

The multiple courses were almost too much of a good thing. While I understand the Italian concept of the primi and secondi dishes, it seems like we had a “terzo” (third) plate thrown in. In the future, Bob might lose one of these entrée-like selections and substitute a shared tray of appetizers prior to the salad. When my family and I were seated, we spent a few minutes introducing ourselves to nearby table-mates, and the sharing of a tray of apps would have smoothed the way in that little social exchange.
Which was my favorite part of the evening. Chain restaurants like Buca di Beppo tout a somewhat forced version of “family style” dining, but Sparrow's dinner was real, friendly, and much more comparable to the spirit of meals I’ve enjoyed at old-school restaurants in neighborhoods like Little Italy or North Beach. In addition to Cary and Diane, we found ourselves beside Andrea and across from members of the extended Sparrow "family." Rita and Frieda are, respectively, the mother and “Nana” of Rico and Rosaria, two of Bob’s skilled, longtime staff. Once I managed to get her name straight ("Nita?" No, Rita. "Aida?" No, RITA!), I complimented Rita on her kids – both are without fail always friendly and knowledgable when I shop in the market.

Sparrow can’t serve alcohol, but because the evening was considered a private party guests were free to bring their own. We enjoyed a crisp Orvieto during introductions and salad, and then a smooth Cab blend during the main courses. Dinner lasted almost three hours, but the time passed so convivially as my sister-in-law and I chatted up a storm with everyone, and my quieter, accommodating brother kept our wine glasses topped off.

Buon amici, buono pranzo, e grazie mille Bob Sparrow e assistenti! ("Good friends, good dinner, and many thanks Bob and staff!" – talk about your "restaurant Italian")